FORMULATE A SOOTHING CUCUMBER AFTER-SUN GEL
Table of Contents
ABOUT THE FORMULA
After taking a break from creating formulas, I am excited to share a new soothing gel with you today. I wanted to develop a gel product for use on the skin after sun exposure, providing a soothing and lightweight sensation.
Making this gel is straightforward. I used distilled water mixed with cucumber hydrosol because I don’t typically use 100% hydrosols in my formulas. I often find them too potent, so I prefer to dilute them with water. As always, the water used should be distilled or deionised.
In addition to the water and hydrosol mixture, I included fantastic soothing ingredients such as Panthenol, Betaine, and Cucumber glycerite extract. The scent from the cucumber ingredients is truly delightful. To create the gel texture, I used xanthan gum. Specifically, I used Cosphaderm® X 34 from Alexmo, Germany. It is easy to use, thickens nicely, and creates a gel that is not stringy. It’s important to note that xanthan gum can come in various grades and types, so it’s essential to test how it works with the kind you have on hand.
I also incorporated cucumber seed oil to enhance the gel’s skin feel. Adding a small amount of lipids to gels helps improve glide and feel. The lipids will be suspended in the gel matrix and will not require a solubiliser. However, if you add essential oils, I highly recommend using a solubiliser in your formula.
To make your gel stand out, you can add a colourant such as soap colourant. The one on the photo has chlorophyll powder to complement the cucumber theme. The quantity needed is so minimal that it may not register on your scales (this happened to me during the trial formula). This addition is optional; you can leave it out to achieve a clear gel.
TIP: To achieve good stability for chlorophyll powder, you should adjust the final pH of the gel to 6.5-7.00.
HOW TO USE
Apply a small amount on the freshly cleansed skin and massage it in. Apply more if required.
POSSIBLE SOURCES
THE FORMULA
| Phases | Ingredient | Function | %w/w |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Distilled water | Solvent | to 100 |
| A | Sodium phytate (Dermofeel PA-3) | Chelator | 0.10 |
| A | Aloe juice 1:1 | Skin conditioning | 20.0 |
| A | Cucumber hydrosol | Solvent, botanical water alt. | 20.0 |
| B | Betaine powder | Moisturising, humectant | 2.0 |
| B | Panthenol | Moisturising, vitamin | 2.0 |
| B | Cucumber glycerite | Moisturising, botanical | 2.0 |
| C | Propanediol | Humectant | 7.0 |
| C | Xanthan gum-Cosphaderm X34 | Thickener, gum | 1.0 |
| D | Cucumber seed oil | Emollient | 0.50 |
| E | Geogard 221 | Preservative | 0.90 |
| F | pH adjuster | pH adjuster | qs |
Method:
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Blend Phase A.
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Add Phase B to A. Blend well.
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Create a slurry (Phase C) and add to Phase A/B. Stir and allow to hydrate.
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Add Phase D and E.
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Check and adjust pH to be 5.0-5.5.
Allow the gel to hydrate fully before transferring it into bottles.
*If using natural colourants, pH may need to be different.
