ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT TOCOPHEROL IN NATURAL COSMETICS
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ABOUT TOCOPHEROL AKA VITAMIN E IN NATURAL SKINCARE
If you’ve ever read the label on a skincare product, chances are you’ve seen Tocopherol, also often referred to as Vitamin E.
Tocopherol is an antioxidant loved by skincare formulators for its ability to protect both the skin and the lipids in the product itself.
But did you know there are different types of tocopherols, each with unique properties? Let’s explore what they are, how they work, and why choosing the right one is important in formulation design.
What is Tocopherol?
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant and a member of the Vitamin E family/ group. It consists of four isomers based on their molecular structure:
1. Alpha-Tocopherol (α)
2. Beta-Tocopherol (β)
3. Gamma-Tocopherol (γ)
4. Delta-Tocopherol (δ)
These isomers have the same molecular formula but different structures, which influence how they work in cosmetic formulations. Some are better for skin care, while others focus more on keeping oils stable.
Skin benefits: Antioxidant for the skin, which protects the skin from free radicals and reduces signs of ageing.
Oil stability: Antioxidant for the oil which means preventing oils from going rancid by slowing down oxidation.
Tocopherol in natural lipids
Tocopherols are naturally present in lipids, especially in plant-based oils and fats. Many unrefined oils contain significant amounts of tocopherols as part of their natural composition.
🌿 Vegetable oils and carrier oils
Sunflower oil (rich in Alpha-Tocopherol)
Soybean oil (contains Gamma- and Delta-Tocopherols)
Wheat germ oil (one of the highest sources of natural Vitamin E)
Olive oil (moderate levels of tocopherols)
Argan oil, Jojoba oil, and Avocado oil (contain mixed tocopherols for added stability).
🌿 Butters:
Natural butters like Shea, Cocoa and Mango butter may contain small amounts of tocopherols depending on their processing method (cold-pressed vs. refined).
🌿 Nuts and seeds oils:
Oils derived from nuts and seeds, like Almond, Flaxseed, and Pumpkin seed oil, are naturally high in tocopherols due to their protective role in preserving the seed’s viability.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT TOCOPHEROL FOR YOUR PRODUCT
Let’s explore the types of tocopherols you’ll use in cosmetics, starting with my recommendation.
Mixed Tocopherols
As we mentioned, the 4 isomers bring something different to the table.
Alpha-Tocopherol: Most potent form.
Gamma-Tocopherol: Oil stabiliser, shelf-life extension of oils.
Delta-Tocopherol: Maximum oil stability.
Beta-Tocopherol: Secondary antioxidant support.
Since it’s often difficult to buy individual tocopherol isomers, suppliers extract a blend from natural oils like soybean, sunflower, and wheat germ oil. This blend is called Mixed Tocopherols, combining all four isomers. This blend of all four types gives you skin benefits from alpha-tocopherol, oil stability from gamma- and delta-tocopherols, and mild antioxidant support from beta-tocopherol. It’s an all-in-one antioxidant solution that works well in both skin-focused and oil-rich products.
Mixed Tocopherols 50%, 70% – what do they mean?
Mixed Tocopherols 50% and 70% refer to the concentration of active tocopherols in the product. The remaining percentage is typically made up of a carrier oil like soybean oil, sunflower oil, or another stabilising base. Let’s see how this looks:
| Label/ Supplier info | What it means |
|---|---|
| Mixed Tocopherols 50% | 50% active tocopherols + 50% carrier oil |
| Mixed Tocopherols 70% | 70% active tocopherols + 30% carrier oil |
| Tocopherol 90-100% | Nearly pure tocopherols (very rare, high cost) |
Why are mixed tocopherols diluted?
1. Ease of use – Pure Tocopherols (100%) are extremely thick, sticky, and hard to work with. They need to be diluted to improve their pourability and ease of mixing.
2. Stabilisation – The carrier oil helps to stabilise the tocopherols during storage and prevent crystallisation.
3. Cost efficiency – Pure tocopherols are expensive, so diluting them makes them more affordable for commercial and small-scale formulations.
D and DL-Tocopherol – what does this mean?
D-Alpha-Tocopherol (natural)
d-Alpha-Tocopherol is the natural form of Vitamin E, extracted from plant oils like sunflower, soybean, or wheat germ oil. It is the most bioavailable isomer, meaning the skin can absorb and use it efficiently. It works as a potent antioxidant, neutralising free radicals, which helps reduce signs of ageing like fine lines and wrinkles. While it’s best known for skin care, it also slows oil oxidation, though less effectively than Gamma- or Delta-Tocopherol. Because it can be prone to oxidation itself, formulators often combine it with other antioxidants like Mixed Tocopherols or Rosemary CO2 Extract to boost both skin and product stability.
DL- (Alpha)Tocopherol (synthetic)
However, there’s a trade-off. While it works well as an antioxidant for the product, its bioavailability on the skin is lower than natural Vitamin E. This means that while dl-Tocopherol is fantastic for oil protection, it’s less effective at delivering skin benefits compared to natural tocopherols.
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE: GREAT FOR THE SKIN
You’ve also probably noticed Tocopheryl Acetate listed in the ingredients of many skincare products. It’s a popular form of Vitamin E, but its role is often misunderstood.
Unlike tocopherol itself, tocopheryl acetate is a synthetic, modified, stabilised version of Vitamin E. It’s created by combining tocopherol with acetic acid, forming a more resilient compound that’s less likely to oxidise. However, this stability comes at a cost—it doesn’t act as an antioxidant in the product itself.
Tocopheryl acetate only becomes useful after it’s applied to the skin, where enzymes break it down, releasing active tocopherol. Once activated, it helps reduce free radical damage, improving skin health and supporting skin barrier function.
Why not use it to protect the oils in your products?
Since tocopheryl acetate is only effective after skin application, it won’t stabilise oils or extend the shelf life of your oil-based formulations. It’s excellent for anti-ageing and repair-focused products, but if you’re trying to keep oils fresh, look elsewhere.
WHAT ABOUT VITAMIN E CAPSULES?
Let’s talk about Vitamin E capsules. I’ve come across many DIY blogs recommending them for homemade skincare, but here’s why they’re not a good idea for cosmetic formulations, even if you are a DIY formulator:
1. Unreliable composition
Most Vitamin E capsules aren’t pure tocopherol. They’re usually diluted with oils like soybean oil or contain stabilisers, glycerols. These extra ingredients can cause product instability or interfere with your formulation.
2. Wrong type of Vitamin E
As we’ve discussed, many capsules contain Tocopheryl Acetate, which only benefits the skin—not the product itself. If you need an antioxidant to preserve oils or stop rancidity, capsules won’t work.
3. Unknown concentration
Capsules rarely provide a precise concentration of tocopherol or tocopheryl acetate. Proper formulation becomes impossible without this information, risking unstable products, and you may be surprised by skin reactions. ( See FAQ on IU units.)
4. Not cost-effective
Capsules may seem affordable, but they’re inefficient for cosmetic production. Professional-grade tocopherol is more cost-effective, easier to measure, and designed for formulation use.
SUMMARY
| Type | Best For | Properties | Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mixed Tocopherols (d-) | All-in-one protection | Skin + oil antioxidant combo | Balanced, multi-purpose, good for most products |
| d-Alpha-Tocopherol (Natural - single isomer) | Skin protection + moderate oil stability | Strong skin antioxidant, moderate oil stabilisation | May need additional oil stabilisers like Gamma-Tocopherol |
| dl-Alpha-Tocopherol (Synthetic) | Oil protection | Product antioxidant only | Minimal skin benefits, cost-effective |
| Tocopheryl Acetate (Synthetic) | Skin-only antioxidant | Skin repair, free radical protection | No product/oil protection, requires enzyme activation |
Now that you’ve gone down the tocopherol rabbit hole, you’ll feel more confident choosing the right one for your formulations. Whether it’s stabilising oils or boosting skin benefits, tocopherol offers versatility for any skincare product.
What’s your biggest challenge when choosing antioxidants for your formulations? Share your thoughts below!
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q1: Can Tocopherol replace a preservative?
No. Tocopherol is an antioxidant, not a preservative. It slows oil oxidation (prevents rancidity) but doesn’t prevent bacterial, yeast, or mould growth. If your product contains water-based ingredients, you must use a broad-spectrum preservative.
Q2: How much Tocopherol should I use?
I would suggest using between 0.2-1% in formulas. This refers to the raw material, not the active tocopherol content.
💡 Formulator tip: Using too much tocopherol can actually have the opposite, pro-oxidative effect, meaning it speeds up oxidation. It can even cause skin reactions.
Q3: When should I add Tocopherol during formulation?
Add tocopherol during the cool-down phase (below 40°C / 104°F) to avoid heat damage. If added too early, its antioxidant properties may break down, reducing its effectiveness.
If your formula requires a hot pour, such as lip balms, increase the amount of tocopherol to compensate for “lost” amounts due to higher temperatures.
Q4: Can I use Tocopherol in water-based products?
Yes and no.
Tocopherol is oil-soluble and won’t dissolve in water. If you’re making a water-based product like a toner or gel, use a solubiliser to blend tocopherol into the formula. I only recommend this if you are adding essential oils to your water-based product – then you will want to protect your essential oils, so adding tocopherol with them can work.
Q6: Can I combine Tocopherol with other antioxidants?
Yes! Tocopherol works well when combined with other antioxidants.
Rosemary CO2 extract is a classic choice, but Vitamin C and/or Ferulic acid with Tocopherol can create powerful antioxidant combinations for the skin.
Q10: What does IU mean, and why is it irrelevant in cosmetics?
IU (International Unit) measures biological activity in nutrition supplements, not cosmetics. In formulation, ignore IU ratings and use % concentration listed on the supplier’s datasheet.
