FORMULATE A SOLID HAIR MASK WITH ARGAN OIL
Table of Contents
ABOUT THE FORMULA
To close this week’s solid bar/zero waste theme, I chose one more haircare product: a solid hair mask.
This formulation is very exciting. It is packed with butters and oils, along with the cationic emulsifier we use in conditioning products.
This time, I chose BTMS25 for two reasons. First, it is widely available, and while it is not organic (partially synthetic), it does give very nice results. Second, it has a lower melting point than Varisoft EQ65, for example, and this is important in this formula.
Because it is a mask, meaning you leave it on the hair for 20-30 minutes, I chose nourishing oils such as macadamia and butters such as shea nilotica. This mask is best suited for dry/ damaged hair, and I recommend using it weekly or fortnightly.
I used silicone ice moulds for these cubes. They are the perfect shape and size for single applications, although, for my shoulder-length hair, I used two cubes ( just because:). You can also try chocolate moulds; there are some super fun shapes out there.
I hope you like it. If you make it, remember to tag FH on social media.
HOW TO USE
Use on wet, cleansed hair.
Place a cube in a bowl and add 2-4 tbsp of hot water. Stir with a spoon or mini whisk and allow it to dissolve until it has a cream consistency. Make sure the cream mask is completely cold before applying it to the hair. Don’t be alarmed if it first looks too runny; it will thicken as it cools.
Apply the mask liberally and allow it to work for 20-30 minutes before rinsing it off. It has a high lipid content, so if you feel it leaves the hair too greasy, wash it with a gentle shampoo. ( I didn’t need to do that, but I have coloured, dry hair.)
Always discard the diluted cubes if not used immediately.
POSSIBLE SOURCES
- BTMS 25 INCI: Behentrimonium methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
THE FORMULA
| Phases | Ingredient | Function | %w/w |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | BTMS 25 (cationic emulsifier) | Conditioning. cationic | 40.0 |
| A | Cocoa butter | Emollient | 17.0 |
| A | Cetyl alcohol | Structural | 10.0 |
| A | Shea nilotica butter | Emollient | 10.0 |
| A | Macadamia oil | Emollient | 10.0 |
| A | Argan oil | Emollient | 10.0 |
| B | Glycerin | Humectant | 1.0 |
| C | Tocopherol (antioxidant) | Antioxidant | 1.0 |
| C | Benzoin essential oil | Fragrance | 0.4 |
| C | Blue tansy essential oil | Fragrance | 0.3 |
| C | Lavender essential oil | Fragrance | 0.3 |
Method:
- Blend Phase A ingredients and heat till liquid.
- When molten, remove from heat and add Phase B. Stir well.
- Add Phase C and stir well.
- While still runny, fill up the mould of your choice and leave the bar to set.
TIPS:
- Vary the oils and butter to suit your theme.
- Choose your own essential oils.
- Use some fun but small silicone moulds.
- Prepare a 10% dilution (1g bar flakes+9g distilled water) and check the pH.
